College Media Network

Soul food makes history

Eric Seidman

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Published: Sunday, February 20, 2005

Updated: Sunday, February 22, 2009

As University graduate Marilyn Herod researched the history of soul food in the New Brunswick Free Public Library, she had no idea her efforts would garner such support.

And when librarian Monica Eppinger approached her to present an expose on the subject, Herod began a project that would lead to a soul food documentary and a cookbook.

The different kinds of soul foods presented in the video included okra - a vegetable plant of African origin also known as gumbo - sweet potatoes, string beans, cornmeal and a variety of ways to create many different recipes with little ingredients.

"Soul food, in the time of slavery, was all about putting something together when you don't have much to make a meal," Herod said.

Herod - an English major who completed her degree in 1992 - said her film and literature class at the University inspired her to pursue to the subject.

" I didn't realize there was so much involved with soul food. It really is a huge part of American history," she said.

The cookbook, entitled "From Ashes to Ovens," was displayed to the public in the New Brunswick public library Wednesday night and sells for $8. Herod also screened her documentary on the subject, "Planting the Seed - Part 1." Chef Robin Williams of the Promise Jobs Culinary School offered samples of soul food recipes such as benne (sesame) seed chicken, okra and gingerbread.

The documentary explained the rich history behind soul food, which played a major role in the diets of American slaves. The title is a reference to the ways in which slaves would hide seeds in their hair in an effort to increase their variety of foods. It also featured readings from Harriet Tubman, a key figure in the Underground Railroad.

Delta's, a restaurant on Dennis Street in New Brunswick that specializes in hard-to-find soul food dishes, also gave an account of special kinds of soul food in the documentary. Their rich macaroni and cheese, the restaurant says, is a soul food delicacy that cannot be matched.

Having received funds from the Middlesex County Cultural and Heritage Commission and support from the National Black United Fund, Herod is in the process of completing a second edition of "Planting the Seed." Set to come out in only a couple of months, it promises to delve deeper into the history of soul food.

"I am really excited for the second edition," Herod said. "There is so much to learn about the history of soul food."